destinations ✦

Prague: A Thousand Spires, Very Cheap Beer, and What to Actually Pack

30 Apr 2024 · 6 min read · By Lou Walt

Aerial view of Charles Bridge and Prague's historic rooftops from above

Photo via Pexels

Prague looks like someone decided to build a fairy tale and then just kept going. Gothic towers, Baroque domes, medieval stone bridges, cobbled lanes that twist and turn in ways that make Google Maps give up. It is, honestly, one of the most visually remarkable cities in Europe, and it has the slightly unreal quality of a place that knows exactly how beautiful it is but somehow doesn't feel smug about it.

Two hours from London. Brilliant for a long weekend. Here is everything you need to know.

What to see in Prague

Prague Castle

The Gothic spires of Prague Castle dominate the skyline from basically every angle in the city, which gives you plenty of time to appreciate them from afar before you actually go up. And you should go up. The complex is vast, the views across the city are excellent, and the cathedral is genuinely jaw-dropping. One rule: go early. By mid-morning the main courtyard is absolutely heaving, and the experience is considerably better with a bit of space to breathe.

Charles Bridge

The medieval stone bridge connecting the old and new town is lined on both sides with statues, each one with its own story and a slightly ominous quality that suits Prague perfectly. There is a gold dog on the bridge, part of the St John of Nepomuk monument, and local tradition says that touching it brings good luck. Do it. You have nothing to lose. The bridge is atmospheric at any time of day, but early morning or late evening is when it earns its reputation. Midday in summer, you're basically shuffling through a crowd. Dawn, with mist on the Vltava and almost nobody around, is a completely different and genuinely magical experience.

Old Town Square

The astronomical clock on the hour is the obvious draw, and yes, it's worth seeing once. But the square itself is the real thing, an extraordinary jumble of Gothic and Baroque architecture that makes Prague look slightly like it was designed for a film set rather than actual habitation. Stand in the middle of it and just look around. It's absurdly beautiful.

What to do in Prague

Vltava River Cruise at Sunset

Prague has its own distinctive riverscape, quite different to Budapest but equally worth seeing from the water. The castle, the bridge, the densely spired skyline reflected in the Vltava at golden hour. Take the sunset cruise, get a drink in hand, and just watch the city do its thing. Excellent use of an evening.

Beer Spa

This is a real thing. You sit in a large wooden tub filled with warm beer, the brewing ingredients doing genuinely nice things for your skin apparently, and while you are doing this, beer is also served to you to drink. It is completely absurd. It is completely brilliant. It is also very Prague in a way that is difficult to articulate but that you will understand the moment you are sitting in a tub of beer drinking a beer. Book ahead.

Getting Around with Bolt

Prague is compact and very walkable, but when you do need a ride, Bolt is the move. Reliable, easy to use, and genuinely cheap by UK standards. Download it before you go and spare yourself the taxi negotiation entirely.

Where to eat (and drink until late)

Manifesto Market

A container market with a great mix of street food vendors covering everything from BBQ to Asian to whatever looks good from a distance. Relaxed atmosphere, outdoor seating, excellent for a long lunch or an early evening. And get the trdelník, the chimney cakes sold from street stalls throughout the city. They are warm, sweet, slightly absurd in size, and entirely worth it. Prague snack of champions.

Výtopna Railway Restaurant

Full disclosure: the food here is average and the prices are higher than they should be. We are recommending it anyway. Because miniature model trains run along tracks suspended above the tables and deliver your drinks directly to you. You will tell absolutely everyone about this. It is objectively delightful. Order something to drink, photograph the train, tell everyone about it. Mission accomplished.

Anonymous Bar

V for Vendetta themed bar where everyone wears the mask. The cocktails are genuinely good and the atmosphere is exactly as committed to the bit as you'd hope. Go with people who are up for it rather than people who are going to explain why it's a bit much. It is a bit much. That is the point.

Nightmare Halloween Bar

Horror film-themed cocktails named after classic movies, décor that leans fully into the aesthetic, and a crowd that is reliably in a good mood. Genuinely fun if you're in the right headspace for it. Not one for the first night when you're still finding your feet, very much one for night two when you want something unexpected.

What to pack for Prague

Prague is a carry-on only city, full stop. It is compact, the airport connections are good, and there is no scenario where you need a big checked bag. Here is what actually matters.

Prague is one of the easiest city breaks to pack for. Get the shoes right, remember the swimming costume, pack a waterproof. The rest is just showing up and letting the city do its thing. Which, for the record, it does very well indeed.